Black salsify

Black salsify – often called “winter asparagus” – is one of those ingredients that, as a 35-year-old editor, never ceases to amaze me. Few vegetables combine earthy elegance, subtle sweetness and nutty depth so harmoniously. In my European kitchen black salsify has long since evolved from a historical medicinal vegetable to a modern highlight. At first glance it looks unassuming: dark, earthy, sticky when peeled. But it is precisely this rustic skin that hides a tender, cream-coloured interior that surprises with delicate flavours after cooking. A colleague of mine swears by placing the stalks directly into lemon water right after peeling so they keep their pale colour — a small trick that saves beginners a lot of frustration.

Those who understand black salsify quickly learn that it represents seasonal cooking at its best. From late autumn into early spring it provides a reliable, regional alternative to imported vegetables. I remember a winter market in Belgium where a farmer explained to me why black salsify is for her a “vegetable of patience”: it needs nutrient-rich, well-loosened soils, careful harvesting and steady hands in the kitchen. When I later tossed it at home in brown butter, an aroma developed that recalled hazelnuts, fresh butter and a hint of forest. Those warm notes are precisely what make black salsify so versatile — it can be creamy, crunchy or velvety depending on how you treat it.

In many European regions black salsify is enjoying a quiet renaissance. While my grandmother served it classically with a light sauce, today I like to combine it with citrus, roasted seeds, a touch of thyme or crispy bacon. A friend from northern Germany even uses it raw, finely shaved, with apple, mustard dressing and dill — surprisingly fresh and elegant. For me personally it is the ideal base for soul food on cold days: a silky soup with shallots, white wine and a little cream, finished with lemon zest. Crispy bread alongside — that’s all you need to enjoy winter.

Who the preparation